巴黎時裝周,谁是你最喜欢的设计?

Who is your favorite design at this Paris fashion week?


CHAPTER 1 | FASHION

at YEEZY Season 8 Presentation

Simple, comfortable shapes and puffy sandals ruled the day


继 2015 年的 YEEZY SEASON 5 之后,Kanye West 终于带着自己的时装系列重返巴黎时装周。长达三年的等待,再加上稍早前 Sunday Service 于巴黎 Bouffes du Nord 剧院演出的铺垫,让大家对于 YEEZY SEASON 8 这场大秀的期待值升至顶峰。



Kanye West‘s busy Parisian excursion concluded on March 2 with a surprise YEEZY Season 8 presentation. His hotly-anticipated return to fashion was mostly bereft of covetable sneakers, focusing instead on a selection of no-frills silhouettes.



伴随着尖锐嘈杂的汽车鸣笛声,模特从 Espace Oscar Niemeyer 的建筑中缓缓走出,新一季的设计就此揭开神秘面纱。Kanye 今季选择以略带破栏杆的「不完整」设计概念呈现,以此展现源自街头的随性气质。整个系列依旧主打大地色系,轻松、舒适并兼具层次感的服饰,搭配上造型奇特的拖鞋与户外靴款,或许正是 Kanye 脑海中 YEEZY HOME 居民应有的装扮。



An intentional sense of incompleteness informed the collection, which centered around effortless, comfortable layering pieces like minimalistic woven crop tops, pocket-laden armbands, puffy vests, face-swallowing hoodies and clingy sweatpants. Hems were left raw or ragged, seams were puckered and the garments flopped atop each model, yielding a sense of purposeful dishevelment.


-More in this Paris fashion week-

1

CHANEL’s

“Very Simple, Very Pure” A/W20 Collection


浪漫主义,但没有任何华丽的词藻。情感,但没有任何虚饰。



Romanticism but without any flourishes. Emotions but without any frills.



2

Balenciaga’s

Wardrobe for the Apocalypse


Demna Gvasalia为Balenciaga设计的2020秋冬时装在洪水泛滥的t台上亮相,展示了一个既神圣又世俗的衣橱,为世界末日带来了希望。



Presented on a flooded catwalk, Demna Gvasalia’s Autumn/Winter 2020 collection for Balenciaga conjured the end of days with a wardrobe both sacred and profane.



3

Louis Vuitton


“时尚的纯粹乐趣”是Nicolas Ghesquiere为Louis Vuitton设计的2020秋冬系列背后的情感,该系列巧妙地融合了过去、现在和未来:融合了18世纪和20世纪80年代的时尚元素,提倡“穿着随意”。



“The pure pleasure of fashion” was the sentiment behind Nicolas Ghesquière’s Autumn/Winter 2020 offering for Louis Vuitton, which masterfully merged past, present and future. Fusing elements of 18th-century and 1980s fashion, the collection advocated “dressing without protocol”.



4

Comme des Garçons


“既然我们都生活在这个世界上,难道就不可能创造出全新的东西吗?” Rei Kawakubo以她最近的系列Neo Future做出了解释。



“Is it not impossible to make something completely and utterly new, since we are all living in this world?” Rei Kawakubo explains her latest collection “Neo Future”.




5

Rick Owens



“这些服装有一种模糊的包豪斯风格以及Klaus Nomi的灰色氛围。”Rick Owens在他的颠覆性优雅的2020秋冬系列中说。这个系列是为了向他儿时的偶像Gary Numan致敬。




“The clothes have a vaguely grey Bauhaus/Klaus Nomi vibe,” said Rick Owens of his subversively elegant Autumn/Winter 2020 collection, which paid tribute to his childhood idol Gary Numan.




CHAPTER 2 | SHOOTING

See horses roam LA for the Gucci SS20 campaign

shot by Yorgos Lanthimos


Yorgos Lanthimos凭借其针对Gucci的SS20广告系列重返动物界,招募了各种规模的马匹,与模特们一起表演。这些可信赖的骏马在洛杉矶小跑,表面上是人类的活动,例如洗车,堵车和跳进游泳池。



Director Yorgos Lanthimos returns to the animal world with his SS20 campaign for Gucci, enlisting a herd of horses of all sizes to star alongside the cast of models. The trusty steeds trot around Los Angeles, enjoying ostensibly human activities such as going to the car wash, getting stuck in traffic, and jumping in the pool.



这是时尚的未来吗? 对于创意总监Alessandro Michele和他的超现实世界,没有是吗是不可能的。 马匹是自由的象征,反映了春季系列,因此也许是他们为什么不选择老鼠的原因。 让Lanthimos的图像提醒您,我们与马表亲共享了世界,他们不需要穿衣服看起来很漂亮,但是喜欢洗蹄和去海滩旅行。



Is this the future of fashion? Nothing is out of the realm of possibility when it comes to Creative Director Alessandro Michele and his surreal world. The horse, is a symbol of freedom reflecting the Spring collection, and thus perhaps why they didn’t choose a rat. Let Lanthimos’ images remind you that we share the world with our equine cousins, who don’t need clothes to look fabulous, but do enjoy having their hooves washed and trips to the beach.


CHAPTER 3 | SPACE DESIGN

Andersson Bell Flagship Store Seoul


商店的材料或冷硬、或厚重,纹理或柔软、或粗糙,构建出一种鲜明的对比,从而在这个布局紧紧的空间里营造出一种奇幻感。这种怪诞的视觉效果脱离了普遍美的幻想,冰冷且枯燥的金属块物体既是Andersson Bell的表达工具,也是商店理想价值的暗示。



The tight store space of Andersson Bell effectively provides a sense of fantasy by deploying dramatic contrasts within the space: between cold and heavy materials or soft and rough textures. The grotesque visual which deviates from the fantasy of universal beauty and the cold, arid masses of metal both serve as Andersson Bell’s tools for expression and a suggestion of the store’s ideal values.



▼季节新款服装展示区,围绕着一根包裹着布料的柱子设置,the new seasonal display zone organized arround a column wrapped in cloth


▼基础款服装展示区,依托于一面弧形墙体布置,basic line zone based on a curved wall


▼试衣间奇幻怪诞的视觉效果,the fantastic visual effect of the fitting room


▼通过隐藏在镜面不锈钢墙体上的旋转门,进入艺术家工作室(高端服装展示区),entering the artist’s room (premium line) through the revolving door in the mirror stainless steel wall


▼艺术家工作室(高端服装展示区),设有镜面和大型的艺术品,the artist’s room (premium line) with mirrors and large art pieces


▼平面图,plan


CHAPTER 4 | EXHIBITION

Milan

-JIL SANDER OPENS AN OTHERWORLDLY INSTALLATION-


为了庆祝他们迷人的Sicillian SS20活动,记录他们浪漫的新系列和与创意总监Lucie和Luke Meier的一次曲折之旅,JIL SANDER于2月21日在米兰的Via Sant'Andrea店举办一场展览,展示这些照片。



In celebration of their mesmerizing Sicilian SS20 campaign, documenting their romantic new collection and a winding road trip with Creative Directors Lucie and Luke Meier, JIL SANDER opened the doors to an exhibition showcasing the photographs at their Via Sant'Andrea store in Milan from 21 Feb.



Paris

Christian Louboutin L'Exhibition


Christian Louboutin的“红底”是一种文化现象,早在Cardi B于2017年使红底高跟鞋的搜索量激增了217%。现在,在最近的一次新展览-Christian Louboutin L'Exhibition修复了巴黎的Palais de la PorteDorée,庆祝法国制鞋设计师30年的职业生涯及其主题。L'Exhibition展览在巴黎多美斯尼大街293号293大街的Palais de la PorteDoreé上,开放时间为2020年2月26日至2020年7月



Christian Louboutin’s “red bottoms” were a cultural phenomenon long before Cardi B caused a 217 percent spike in searches for scarlet-soled stilettos in 2017. Now, a new exhibition -- Christian Louboutin L’Exhibition -- at the recently-restored Palais de la Porte Dorée in Paris celebrates the French footwear designer’s 30-year career and the themes that have defined it. L’Exhibition is on at Palais de la Porte Doreé, 293 Avenue Daumesnil, Paris 75012, open from 26 February to July 2020.



CHAPTER 5 | CHARACTER

Ulay


我们这个时代最伟大的艺术家之一,宝丽来摄影的先驱者,行为艺术之父,最激进、最唯一的乌雷,本周在睡梦中平静地离开了我们,去向了另一段旅程。



One of the greatest artists of our time, the pioneer of Polaroid photography, the father of performance art, the most radical and unique Ulay, left us peacefully in his sleep this week.



乌雷生于1943年的德国索林根城,在一次空袭中生于防空洞内。他15岁成为孤儿,随后结婚生子,21岁时已小有成就。但三年后,他放弃了一切,去到阿姆斯特丹并加入了偶发艺术团体“the Provos”。



Ouray was born in Solingen, Germany in 1943 and was born in an air-raid shelter during an air raid. He became an orphan at the age of 15 and then married and had children. But three years later, he gave up everything, went to Amsterdam and joined the occasional art group "the Provos".



随后,他成为宝丽来的摄影顾问,由此接触了胶片与相机。在上世纪七十年代早期,乌雷将镜头深入到了变性人、异装癖、流浪汉等社会边缘人群的世界。他的照片因尖锐且私密的拍摄主题,以及写实主义的风格,震撼了当时的艺术界。



He later became a photography consultant for Polaroid, where he came into contact with film and cameras. In the early 1970s, Ulay penetrated the lens into the world of transgender people, transvestites, and tramps. His photographs shook the art world at the time with sharp and private shooting themes and realist style.



1976年,乌雷遇见玛丽娜•阿布拉莫维奇,二人坠入爱河。同年,乌雷也开始了他在艺术上的新方向,创作了传奇的行为艺术作品《挑衅,对艺术作品的非法接触》。他与阿布拉莫维奇以情侣身份共同创作了十二年,并在1988年以象征性的方式告终,完成了行为艺术作品《长城》。



In 1976, Ulay met Marina Abramovich, and the two fell in love. In the same year, Ulay also began his new direction in art, creating the legendary performance artwork "Irritation. There is a Criminal Touch to Art". He and Abramovich co-created for twelve years as a couple, and ended in a symbolic way in 1988, completing the performance artwork “The Great Wall Walk“.



CHAPTER 6 | VISUAL MERCHANDISING

Burberry Corner Shop Pop-Up in Selfridges

2 - 29 MARCH


为庆祝Burberry 2020春夏系列,并向Ernest Shackleton爵士等先驱致敬,他曾在Burberry的历史性极地探险中戴过Burberry,该空间还整合了企鹅,可以通过增强现实体验将企鹅栩栩如生。 通过专用的QR码访问,访问者可以用企鹅拍摄自己的屏幕截图或视频,并在其社交平台上共享。



To celebrate this theme within Burberry’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection and in a nod to pioneers like Sir Ernest Shackleton, who wore Burberry on his historic polar expeditions, space also incorporated penguins that can be brought to life through an augmented reality experience. Accessed via dedicated QR codes, visitors are able to take a screenshot or a video of themselves with the penguins and share on their social platforms.




VM TIPS

DIY Garment Rack

服装架在展示上也有很大影响,并且可以突出品牌个性。

Clothing Rack also has a great impact on the display, and can highlight the brand personality.

200306 BYB MAG | 巴黎时装周如火如荼中~

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